Wednesday 6 June: Neo Itleo to Geroleminos (26 miles)

On the road by 9.30 passing barking dogs we circuit the bay to Limenos before starting to climb upwards towards Areopolis. Near the top we are passed by an English cyclist on a road bike who is impressed by our achievement with laden panniers. As am I. We explore the old town of Areopolis and admire old stone houses, churches and pithoi laden with colourful geraniums. The road from here is much flatter as we cycle deeper into the Mara Mani. We stop for a coke by the turn off to the Diros Caves and are relieved when the owner agrees to store our panniers while we take the detour down to sea level. I was expecting to be underwhelmed but the caves are magnificent. A labyrinth of caves stacked with hundreds of stalactites and stalagmites reflected in the still water. A true underground Cathedral. The cameras does not do it it justice. We are punted along the 1.6 km of underground river by a boatman who pushes us along with his oar on the roof of the caves. It is blissfully cool. Out into the midday sun again and we have to cycle back up the hill. It should feel easier without the bags and I suppose it does. Laden once more we take a side road and cycle through deserted villages with watch towers and minute churches and chapels. We arrive in Gerolimenas at the Kyrimai Hotel and are met with an idyllic vision of stone buildings, immaculate pool and sunbeds on the rocks overlooking crystal clear water. Our room has a bedroom up in the eaves and views of the sea. I think I could get used to this!  A late lunch on the deck before reading and swimming off the rocks. Negroni on the terrace and then a rather superior meal in the hotel restaurant with grilled prawns and luscious fillets of grouper. And real wine from a bottle instead of the jug of local than we have been used to.