Our day on the beach is interspersed with a visit to a little chapel at one end, perched just above the sea, and another, the chapel of Saint Varvara (is that Greek for Barbara?), which is right on the beach. The first one is unlocked and contains an array of icons and votive candles. The second, dating from the 13 century and restored with EU funds,is firmly locked. We drink rose on our balcony as old Helios' chariot dips beneath the western hills. He's had a busy day.





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