Monday 3 June: Kardamyli to Itlio Bay (25 miles)

We start the day with a quick dip off the nearby rocks. The sea is calm and still and the sun is bursting over the mountains. We are sorry to leave our lovely hotel and Kardamyli and fear that it may be somewhat downhill from now on. Not that we can say the same about the roads I fear. A hot and quickly sweaty ascent out of Kardamyli brings glorious views back towards the harbour and the fertile slopes and tall spires of the cypress trees. We are soon in Stoupa and we make a detour along the beach before finding a cycle track leading along the coast to the small fishing port of Agia Nikolias. We stop here for an iced coffee and admire the picturesque village and fat Greek men watching the world go by. Then starts the real challenge, a gentle but steady uphill gradient for about an hour. Several stops to rest trembling thighs, rehydrate and take photos. We refuel with Coca Cola near the summit near an ancient Orthodox chapel with ornate frescoes. The landscape is now becoming more barren and rugged with steep mountain ranges all around. A glorious swooping descent takes us down to Itlio Bay and our boutique hotel. Refreshed we have lunch in a scruffy local taverna before a nap on the beach. It is windy here but that brings some welcome respite from the intense heat.