Saturday 09 June Gerolimenas to Kokkala

Today we cycle from the southermost  tip of the Mani across the tail end of the Taygetos mountains to the East coast. We only have 13 miles to cycle but they are very hilly. The road is alarmingly wiggley on the map. We leave late from our idyll after a final early morning swim and head off and up. At Alika the road turns upwards into the mountains. We are even higher than Vathia. A herd of goats block the road and their capric odour mingled with the wild thyme that grows in profusion here with its purple flowers fills the air. At Tsikkalia, another deserted village, with a pristine church, we find that Clare has a broken spoke in her rear wheel. I haven't carried out this sort of repair by the side of the road before, but there is no choice as we are in the middle of nowhere. An hour or so later we are back on the road.

We eventually crest the summit and start our precipitous descent. We stop for cafe freddo at Lagia. Traditional bazouki music playing at the little taverna. A French lady describes us as "courageous"....maybe, or just unusual! Down we plunge to the East coast and arrive at Kokkala. Rather worryingly it is completely deserted. We are staying in a castle....which is up a very steep hill; so steep that we have to push the bikes. We walk around the village in search of beer, which we eventually find, and buy some cheese straws form a bakery which is as hot as Hades. We also find a place to eat tonight...the owner seems to know we are staying in the castle...we may be the only ones there! We take out beer to the beach, which has a beautiful church at one end. Very strong westerly wind blowing. For supper we eat inside for the first time because of the wind. Smoking is allowed (see sign), and card playing locals puff away freely All very basic, still, we are are very grateful for some food!