Sunday 10 June: Kokkala to Skoutari (20 miles)

The wind has been howling all night and does not appear to be abating. We still manage breakfast on the "castle" terrace before hitting the road. White horses fill the bay and we are now heading up the east coast of the Mani. The wind is so strong and never seems to be at our backs however we soldier on having plenty of time to admire the stunning scenery: terraced hillsides of sun scorched grasses with ancient Maniot towers dotted along the way. My hopes of gentle undulation today are soon thwarted and it seems there are a lot of hills. We stop to refuel with Coca Cola in Katronas overlooking the harbour before another climb around the headland into the wind. Breathtaking views as we approach Skoutari. Simon says if his map reading is correct it is downhill all the way. I am losing faith in my navigator. Even our hotel at Skoutari Beach is up another hill but it is a lovely spot and he gives us the best room with a large balcony overlooking the sea. Probably because we are the only ones here. We are not the only ones on the beach however because it is Sunday of course. The locals are out in force and there is a great family atmosphere. Greek salad, garlic dip (not sure my breath will ever recover from this holiday) and courgette rissoles for lunch before a rather sand blown recuperation on the beach. The water is still crystal clear but we do hope the wind drops tomorrow. Take away Rose in a plastic water bottle to drink on our balcony.